June 12, 2020
I haven’t written anything in weeks. Wait, it’s been months, hasn’t it? The state of the world, for… however long now, has been horrifying. The weight felt physically heavy on my heart the day I heard the leader of the free world declare a pandemic, and a complete lockdown of our society and economy. I desperately tried to process this virus infecting our earth on a scale generations had never seen. I was terrified, and for such a normally calm person, unable collect myself.
I had always wondered if it would happen, if I’d get through my lifetime without being called to war, having to wait in line for food during a great depression, or having to stockpile food and lock my doors to survive a plague or civil unrest.
It seems strange to look back on it now, with the sun shining on my face, drinking a glass of delicate Cabernet Sauvignon in the warm, inviting town of Paso Robles, California. I see the winery staff perform their duties of hospitality with surgical masks on their faces and gloves on their hands. And the new normal just seems… normal.
Maybe there’s risk involved too. But at a certain point, those of us who live and breathe to travel can not stay quarantined.
In searching for the destination with which to break our months-long shelter-in-place, I first looked at the numbers. Paso Robles, located in San Luis Obispo county, has had very minimal infection, yet for many months was still required to lock down, sacrificing many businesses and livelihoods.
So I’d like to get the word out, and introduce you to one of my favorite wine regions in the world. I hope this helps you understand why I’ve always loved it, and why I want to support it now. I’ll give you a list of what’s open, so you can feel safe and confident helping their economy get back in its feet while you enjoy some great food and wine!
Why I love Paso:
Paso Robles, originally “El Paso De Robles,” or “The Passage of The Oaks,” comes by its name honestly. The winding 2-lane roads are sheltered by huge oak trees adorned with romantic hanging Spanish moss. There is nothing crowded or commercial about it. Wineries are secluded and huge in acreage. The views are surreal. The downtown area reminds me more of a small town in the American South than of one in California.
Varying elevations, soil types and aspects allow for huge diversity and creativity in wines being produced. Paso Robles as an AVA was established in 1983. However, due to such variance in climate, soil and topography, further diversification was allowed in 2014 when 11 smaller, distinct AVAs were created within the region. The diversity of Paso Robles allows for more than 60 different grape varieties to be grown, and many creative blends to be produced.
Below are some of my personal favorite wines, wineries, restaurants and places to stay in the area:
Tasting Rooms to Visit:
Denner Vineyards
Denner is probably my favorite winery, and one of the only Paso wine clubs to which I belong. Combine fantastic hospitality, amazing wines and beautiful views, and you’ve got yourself a perfect afternoon. Their 130 acres of vineyard land allow for over 20 different grape varieties to grow – producing beautiful, interesting blends that are highly rated year after year. Try the “Ditch Digger” and “Dirt Worshipper,” and you won’t be disappointed. Tastings from $40. Reservations are required: www.dennervineyards.com
Daou Vineyards
With breathtaking views – Daou’s tasting room sits atop a mountain of the same name, and is owned by two brothers from France embarking on a quest to create the world’s best Cabernet Sauvignon. The food and wine pairing experience is amazing. From $65. Reservations are required: www.daouvineyards.com
L’Aventure Winery
Winemaker Stephan Asseo made wine in Southern France for 15 years, before beginning a search in the mid-1990’s for a special terroir which would allow him to create exceptional, more creative wines than the strict French AOC regulations would allow. The result of his ingenuity is prevalent in his “Paso Blends” – varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and sometimes Petit Verdot. Try the “Optimus,” or the blend of Rhone varietals, “Cote a Cote.” All the wines are exceptional. Tastings from $25. Reservations required. www.laventurewine.com
Linne Calodo
Visit Linne Calodo’s modern and stylish tasting room for some of the best Zinfandel and Rhone varietal blends in Paso Robles. Unfortunately, they were not open during our visit, but I must recommend them as theirs are some of my favorite wines in the region. Visit www.linnecalodo.com for updated information or to make an appointment (appointments will be required).
Recommended Wineries NOT Yet Open at the Time of This Writing:
Tablas Creek Vineyard
No visit to Paso is complete without a visit to Tablas Creek. Without their founders, including the Perrin family of Chateauneuf-du-Pape’s Chateau Beaucastel, Rhone varieties would not have been imported and rooted into Paso Robles history. In many ways, this winery is the reason Paso is on the map! They are not yet open but will be soon, reservations will be required. Visit www.tablascreek.com for updated info.
Eberle Winery
My one recommendation on the warmer, flatter, east side of Paso Robles, Eberle is a fun experience with a beautiful wine cave and al fresco tasting area. They hope to reopen at the end of June. Visit www.eberlewinery.com
Turley Wine Cellars
Another winery I love, which has not yet reopened, but is worth a visit when it’s available. Known for their single vineyard Zinfandels and Petit Sirahs, you’ll love their beautiful outdoor tasting area and generous hospitality. Visit www.turleywinecellars.com for updated information.
Where to Eat:
Let’s talk restaurants! Paso Robles has really come into its own in the last few years, offering a fantastic assortment of new restaurants really matching the quality of its wine. All of these are in the historic downtown area and are within easy walking distance to most hotels and the gorgeous central park. I will also be grading them based on their sensitivity to COVID-19 safety protocols.
BL Brasserie (Formerly Bistro Laurent)
My favorite in Paso! Not only is it the best food, and has an international wine list to die for, but the service is attentive and wonderful. With their charming atmosphere, you won’t know you’re not in a little brasserie in Paris. On the pricey side. Worth it. A+ for social distancing practices with masks, 6’-distanced tables and disposable menus. Reservations recommended. www.bistrolaurent.com
Il Cortile
Rich Italian fare, attentive service, premium local and Italian wine list, and an abundance of truffles when in season! Tiny place with a few al fresco seats when available. A+ for social distancing practices with masks, 6’-distanced tables and disposable menus. Reservations recommended. www.ilcortileristorante.com
La Cosecha Bar + Restaurant
Right on the main square, on the more casual side, we have eaten here several times and have had consistently great food and service. Latin fare but with a hint of Italian. Paella is wonderful but so is the pizza! A+ for social distancing practices, masks, disinfecting between seatings and disposable menus. Reservations not required but recommended. www.lacosechabr.com
Brunch
Well, the name speaks for itself here. The best place to get breakfast and mimosas in Paso! The frittata and breakfast burrito absolutely hit the spot. If you’re concerned about social distancing, this may be too much for you. Although the tables are spaced very far apart, there are no disposable menus and the servers were not wearing masks on our visit. But I still recommend it, just bring hand sanitizer! www.brunchpaso.com
Jeffry’s Wine Country BBQ
Outdoor seating in a brick-laden courtyard, smelling the spices and smoke of charcoal grilling while enjoying a glass of bubbly? Sounds pretty perfect doesn’t it? This is a very casual place, only accessible through an alley off of Park Street. Order your gluten-free hearty tri-tip sandwich and wine at the bar, grab a seat and enjoy the sunshine. Highly recommended. A+ for social distancing with spacing between tables, face masks, and no sit down menus (just order at the bar). www.jeffryswinecountrybbq.com
Where to Stay:
The Piccolo
Brand new hotel just off the main square in downtown Paso. Not only was the hotel centrally located, modern and stylish, but also very clean! Of course our stay was unique, we were one of the first people to arrive upon its reopening, and only one of a few guests in the hotel at the time. They have a lovely rooftop bar which was not yet open, but guests are allowed to enjoy on their own. Wonderful service, and a Moet & Chandon vending machine! How could you go wrong? www.thepiccolo.com
Allegretto Vineyard Resort & Restaurant
Tuscan-style lovely resort just off Highway 46, more secluded about 5-7 minutes from downtown, this hotel reminds me of Sonoma’s Fairmont Mission Inn & Spa. The rooms are beautiful, with each king room having it’s own balcony or private courtyard surrounded by greenery. There is a spa, a tasting room, and a great (albeit pricey) restaurant, Cello Ristorante on site with lovely vineyard views. Highly recommended. www.allegrettovineyardresort.com
A few last thoughts:
Remember to wear your face mask, if not for yourself for others more vulnerable. Bring your hand sanitizer and use it liberally.
The wineries at the time of this writing, require food to be served in order to serve wine. So be prepared to order a cheese plate or meal with each wine tasting appointment.
No parties of 6 or more are being accommodated at this time. Sorry bachelorette parties!
Unlike many more expensive wine regions, tasting fees are usually waived here with the purchase of wine. Be sure to ask, and save some room in your car to bring some wine home!
The closest airport is San Luis Obispo, but it is very small. The larger airport closest to Paso is San Jose, and it is about a 2 1/2 hour drive.
I hope my information has helped you decide to come to Paso Robles, and support the wineries of our great state of California. We all need a sense of normalcy, and it is important not to live in fear as we return to our lives and our travel.
As always, be safe and take care of yourself. If you have any questions feel free to email me directly at travelerandeonophile@gmail.com.
Cheers and happy travels. Carrie
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