It is dead calm, with only the sound of church bells breaking the silence. Occasionally a swallow or two will speed through the sky overhead.
The city is black and grey, without much other color or life. Looking down the cobblestoned street through the ruins, I wonder if I see other humans, or just the crumbles of stone left untouched for generations.
The streets are dirty. I see first hand, as if stepping back in time, what this city was like as an unhealthy slum for much of the 19th and 20th centuries.
We park and exit our car right next to a coffee shop. Being weary from the ride, I pop my head into the little cafe. The only person working gives me a glare, as if telling me to stay away.
My driver hands me my bag and shrugs. He says: “Matera is not ready for tourists.”
Then what are we doing here? Well, more often than not, the most fascinating places to discover are, in fact, not ready for tourists. Sometimes, they’re not fancy. Sometimes they’re not polished. It’s okay. We are prepared for this.
There are many reasons I recommend visiting Matera, Italy. You see, once the city becomes “ready” for tourists, everyone else will be going there, too. So get there as soon as you can, as I don’t think this fragile city is capable of handling the masses.
A Little History
Matera is an ancient landlocked city in the southern Italian region of Basilicata – the instep of Italy’s “boot.” Excavations have its origins dating back the the Neolithic age over 10,000 years ago.
Within the ravines of Matera are the “Sassi,” or stone caves, where ancient humans lived and thrived for thousands of years.
From Italy’s independence in the late 19th century, to the mid 20th century, these cave homes were occupied by an isolated civilization of working poor. The conditions were dismal. People lived in squalor within the caves aside their farm animals, disease was rampant, and the childhood mortality rate was atrocious. There was no running water, no electricity, and many died of hunger.
Upon his visit in 1950, Italy’s prime minister was appalled by what he saw in Matera, and decided to allocate funds to relocate the citizens to new housing on the flat plain above the hillsides.
For decades, the Sassi lay abandoned, but in the 1980’s came a resurgence by young Materans wanting to preserve their heritage and culture. They rebuilt the city, cleaning the caves and reoccupying the abandoned stone homes. In 1993 the city was named a UNESCO World Heritage sight, was awarded the title of European Capital of Culture for 2019, and glamorous “cave hotels,” restaurants and shops were forged into the ancient rocks.
Today, Matera has a great deal to offer. We found many stunning sights, romantic restaurants, and stayed in a lovely hotel built into a former 14th century church.
Where to Stay
L’Hotel in Pietra ***
There are many beautiful luxury hotels in Matera, all offering their own unique qualities and charm. L’Hotel in Pietra is a former church located centrally within the Sassi, and dates back to as early as 1300 c.e. The owners say you can feel the echoes of its ancient and magic history from every corner.
We booked the most coveted suite in the building – room 1003, a former chapel, with the views of the ancient city from a private sitting area only accessible through a passageway in the upper level of the room. It was a little strange at first, ducking down and climbing over rocks to carry our wine and cheese picnic to our balcony, but what an adventure!
The room also had a large comfortable bed, oversized modern bath and a loft with a private hot tub.
Best of all, it was very affordable, at less than half the price of many of the fancy cave hotels, but with many more modern conveniences. Click here for more information and booking.
*Important note: As with many Materan attractions, it is difficult to get here from the street – many stairs are required.
Where to Eat
Dedalo Sensi Sommersi
Our favorite restaurant was Dedalo. Best described as a thrilling sensory experience, the restaurant was recently reconstructed with an otherworldly, enchanting ambiance.
While the charm of the ancient Sassi cave is preserved, it is a modern artistic feast for the eyes. The hospitality was over-the-top, and the food was sensational. Highly recommended. Must book in advance.
Bacchus Ristorante
It’s difficult to find anything online about this place – it is truly a hidden gem. We only knew about it from a local’s recommendation.
A little more on the casual side, it’s a great place to experience hearty, delicious authentic Materan cuisine. There is a beautiful cave dining area, as well as an alfresco patio to enjoy lovely street views. No reservations necessary, highly recommended.
Area 8 Bar and Restaurant
This is a quirky, fun bar with live music located in the center of town. There are indoor tables as well as a large outdoor seating area where the live band plays. We had a great time here – the wine was, of course, wonderful, and the cheese plate was enormous. We couldn’t even finish it, and not finishing cheese is highly unusual for me!
A Little About the Wine
The most important offering in the region of Basilicata is Aglianico del Vulture. The Aglianico grape is considered one of the great varieties of Italy, and the best are grown on the vast, high planes of the extinct volcano of Monte Vulture.
The wines produced are full bodied and high tannin, with balanced acidity and juicy dark fruit flavors, developing into aromas and flavors of earth and game with age.
These wines are very hearty and known for their ability to age in bottle. However, I found them very enjoyable to drink now. I love a good inky dark, smoky, full-bodied wine, and personally think the more robust the tannic structure, the better!
Being the most important grape of the region, several variations are made. We even found a sparkling rose’ at the local wine shop for enjoyment on the hot summer day on our balcony.
How to Get Here
We chose a transfer company, to avoid the hassle and cost of parking or renting a car. Apulia Slow Travel was a reliable transfer company, and they also provided a fascinating and informative walking tour through Matera when we arrived.
At the time of this writing, the famously efficient Italian train system does not serve much of Southern Italy. The only easy option to visit Matera is either by group tour, bus, car hire or private transfer.
If you choose to rent a car, parking can be very difficult, and in the central Sassi area is not permitted except for loading and unloading. There are parking garages nearby, but it may be a bit of a walk to your hotel. Ask your hotel upfront if they offer valet parking – it will be worth every penny.
In Conclusion
After spending some time discovering this gorgeous historic place, we found immense charm, beautiful scenery, fascinating history and eventually, many friendly and accommodating locals!
I strongly recommend visiting Matera, before it’s discovered and its charm is lost in time. Brush up on your Italian (you may not hear English at all), pack your bags light, and be prepared for a truly enchanting experience.
If you have any questions, or would like any advice in planning your trip, feel free to email me directly at travelerandoenophile@gmail.com.
Cheers and Happy Travels!
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