By Carrie Brock
July 15, 2019
It’s dawn, and I’m awake while the rest of the world is barely stirring.
The sun is breaking the Medieval skyline and the cobblestones are wet from dewey overnight air. It’s quiet, except for the delivery trucks bringing in their morning haul for the all-important outdoor cafe scene. It’s cold, but with the clear air comes the promise of warmth and sunshine.
The cafes are beginning to open, owners cranking out their awnings, setting up their tables and sweeping the ground of rainwater.
I’m lucky to find one open early. I sit idly, disappear into the background and watch the world go by. I only exist as it matters in a little cup of coffee, and to a kind, but quiet server with whom I can barely communicate. All the same, he gives me a smile.
I’m in the village of Beaune, France, and I’m alone. Admittedly, it’s probably jet lag combined with too much plane Champagne that has woken me. But I love to be awake before the rest of the world, because for a little while, I have it all to myself.
And what a perfect place to explore on my own. It’s small enough to cover in a day, but interesting enough to create a lifetime of memories.
So let’s take a moment to discover this lovely, wine-centric capital of Burgundy’s Cote d’Or, and explore some of it’s highlights.
The Hospices du Beaune
This was my first stop after my cup of coffee at the adjacent cafe. Built as a hospital in the 15th century, the Hospices de Beaune is deservedly a central icon of the city. It is a colorful example of gothic architecture and of the prominence of the powerful Dukes of Burgundy. The sparkling tile roofs, symbolic characteristic to the Bourgogne region, are a stunning sight.
Interestingly and importantly, over several centuries, many prominent land owners would donate vineyards to the hospital. The foundation has thus accumulated massive amounts of desirable vineyard area over the centuries which it still owns today.
No longer used as a hospital (a more modern facility is used just outside the city), since the mid 19th century the Hospices has been better known as the central location of one of the biggest charity wine auctions in France. Hosted by Christie’s, the proceeds from auctioned bottles and barrels support the modern hospital facility.
I recommend going early before the crowds. It opens at 9 am; audio tours are available and are very informative.
I also recommend purchasing one of the coveted wines from the Hospices’ vineyards. They are available in the gift shop and, outside of the famous wine auction, are one of the few places I’ve been able to find them.
Musee du Vin
Housed in the former palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, the Musee du Vin de Bourgogne is a small but comprehensive tour through the area’s vineyards, covering ancient history to modern times. I recommend visiting any time of day, it wasn’t too crowded during my experience mid-day. Make sure to take a moment to visit the outside complex housing some of the original winery equipment used centuries ago.
Basilique Notre Dame
Another beautiful example of gothic architecture, this church is open to the public for a small donation and is well worth a stop. It’s stunning inside, and is well known for its gorgeous 15th century tapestries illustrating the life of the Virgin Mary.
Maison Pierre Mayeul
Now we get to the fun part of visiting Beaune, wine tasting! Pierre Mayeul is a wine merchant in the heart of the city, and is strongly dedicated to the production of wines reflecting the expression of their terroir. Several vineyard areas throughout the region are represented.
They offer customized wine tours and tastings, housed in their 17th century cellars adorned by oak barrels. After reconnecting with my friends, we toured in the afternoon.
During our visit I was lucky enough to meet Ludivine Griveau, the winemaker for the Hospices du Beaune’s vineyards. She’s their first female wine maker and the youngest in history. Undeniably an experience to remember. This is a personalized tour so be sure to make reservations in advance. Wines can be purchased and shipped to the US. Click here for more info and to book.
Caves Madeleine
After tasting wine for several hours (and consequently trying the first bottle of white wine to change my life), my travel companions and I headed for the locals’ favorite restaurant – Caves Madeleine. I heard it was crucial to make reservations in advance, and I had heard correctly.
There are very few tables (one being a large community table), and thus there was a line out the door come dinner time for any walk-ins.
This is the place to be for any wine lover – beginners and connoisseurs alike. Cave Madeleine has, of course, an outstanding wine list, as well as a tasting menu focused on farm-to-table fresh ingredients grown all around Burgundy. The chef was even so kind as to introduce himself to us during our visit. The level of service and attention to detail was incredible. For reservations, click here.
For additional information, including how to get here, where to stay, and other restaurant recommendations, see my previous piece on exploring Burgundy’s Cote d’Or.
Comments? Questions? Email me at travelerandoenophile@gmail.com