By Carrie Brock
There are many ghosts haunting the streets of Savannah. From the soldiers who took their last breaths on the battlefields of the Revolutionary and Civil Wars, to the countless souls who lost their lives during several devastating bouts of yellow fever, Savannah has seen its share of death since its settlement in the late 18th century.
Yet, from Savannah’s tumultuous past, a romanticism is ignited. A spark which fills the streets with energy and life. Its elegant architecture, beautiful green squares, and its sprawling oak trees adorned with iconic Spanish moss have survived, and have become a symbol of perseverance and resolve.
And, as I discovered pretty quickly, the beauty of Savannah is somehow outmatched by its famous hospitality. The residents of this city are some of the most welcoming I’ve ever encountered.
Time moves just a little more slowly here, and to visit means you won’t be in for an action-packed adventure. Really, this guide should be called “Eating and Drinking in Savannah,” because that’s mostly what we accomplished with only one day.
So here are a few things to do in Savannah’s Historic District, especially if you have limited time and are a first time visitor, that I highly recommend.
A Carriage Ride Through Jones’ Street
A bit touristy, yes, but it is an essential experience for your first visit! The guides are well-versed in the city’s history, and will escort you through all the famous historic spots in downtown. Make sure you ask to see Jones Street – one of the most beautiful, most photographed streets in the city. No reservations necessary, booths for booking are located in the City Market on Jefferson Street. www.carriagetoursofsavannah.com
Colonial Park Cemetery
There are a large number of cemeteries in Savannah and its surrounding areas, which makes fitting the saying: “Savannah was Built on its Dead.” Colonial Park Cemetery is one of the largest and most beautiful in the downtown historic district, albeit, according to locals, the most haunted. Established in the late 18th century, it is the final resting place of many important residents, but most notably the over 700 victims of the Great Yellow Fever Epidemic in 1820.
Despite its dark history, the cemetery is a lovely public space to enjoy and contemplate. The Spanish moss hanging from the live oak trees is abundant and captivating. It is surely worth a morning stroll. Open to the public for free.
Arches Bar
Let’s start drinking! Arches Bar is the semi-alfresco bar attached to the historic Olde Pink House Restaurant, and is the perfect stop for dining and libations. The service is top-notch, the food is great, and there is a vast selection of beer and wine available. It’s a very popular place – reservations are recommended. www.theoldepinkhouserestaurant.com/drink
Olde Pink House Restaurant & The Downstairs Bar
The first restaurant on my list of recommendations, The Olde Pink House, is a must-do – if you can get reservations.
Built in 1771 by a wealthy land owner for his personal residence, the stately mansion was later used by the colonists in the early 19th century as the first bank in Georgia. The massive vaults used to store money are now used as wine cellars and a speakeasy-style downstairs bar only accessible through the restaurant. The Downstairs Bar quickly became my favorite spot in town. Highly recommended. www.theoldepinkhouserestaurant.com
Elizabeth on 37th
The other highly sought-after spot in town is Elizabeth on 37th. Housed in another beautiful southern mansion built in the early 20th century, to dine here feels like going back in time. The owners combine classic, comfortable ambiance with traditional furnishings, and an intriguing menu featuring fresh coastal seafood and house-grown produce. www.elizabethon37th.net
Hamilton Turner Inn
No need to look for anywhere else to stay. This historic mansion-turned-luxury-hotel is so gorgeous, it is understandably the most photographed home facade in the city.
Each suite, with its own individual style, is furnished with modern but traditional features. Most importantly for us, this included a very comfortable bed and a large, well-appointed bath.
Breakfast is included in the price, so be prepared to stuff yourself with southern cooking each morning! And of course, the owners were highly accommodating to my gluten allergy. Strongly recommended. For reservations: www.hamilton-turnerinn.com
Afternoon “Tea” in the Parlor
Just kidding. It’s wine. I wouldn’t show up for tea.
This was a sweet feature the owners of The Hamilton Turner Inn provide as a service to their guests.
I’m not usually the social type, but in such a friendly city, you can’t help but participate in the local conviviality. And what a delight to not only chat with the hotel staff, but with wonderfully nice travelers from all over the world.
A Couple More Things:
When to Visit: We visited in the beginning of May, and already the weather was turning uncomfortably warm. Savannah is known to be stifling in the summer, so plan accordingly and visit during shoulder season.
“Street Drinks:” I was not previously aware that the city of Savannah has an open container policy for alcohol. Walking the stunning historic streets with a tasty cocktail in your hand is an unusual, but fun experience. In most bars, the tender will offer you a to-go drink, or “street-drink” for the travel to your next destination.
In Conclusion:
Writing this piece has only made me desperately miss Savannah. I was teary-eyed at having to leave, and I continue to feel the same lump in my throat when I think about this charming little corner of the South.
This is not an “insider’s” guide, and I’m not a local – just a girl who fell in love with a magical city. I hope my brief experience inspires you to add Savannah to your travel bucket list if you haven’t already.
Questions? Comments? Email me at TravelerAndOenophile@gmail.com