In the heart of the holiday season, when the lights are sparkling and the air smells of cinnamon and cloves, we imagine a beautiful winter wonderland. Beneath the mountain peaks a small train winds through snow covered trees. It’s shiny red lacquer glinting off the white snowy surroundings, to arrive in a town tucked into the mountain with snow covered roofs and a village traversed only by foot. Well that beautiful little picture becomes real life in Zermatt. A winter village nestled in the alps, only accessible by train, one that has chugged along for hundreds of years. The Christmas fantasy comes true, where the skiing is sublime, the food is delectable and it all falls under the beautiful backdrop of the magnificent Matterhorn.
Zermatt is a car free ski resort town. It is covered by ski chalets and filled with shops and restaurants. Although it is home to a small local population, during the ski season the chalets fill up and the town is overrun with visitors from near and far. The main attraction of course is access to the highest slopes in Switzerland, with various options for enthusiasts up to athletic adventurers. There are rentals available, lessons for children and adults, and great apres ski options for both young and the young at heart. Lest we forget, it is also home to the most breathtaking views of the iconic Matterhorn. For ski options and suggestions check the Zermatt visitor website.
After a long day on the slopes, head directly for the hot chocolate. The Swiss chocolate is as good as its reputation, and even more delectable melted and covered in whipped cream. The chocolate darkness is tampered by the light creamy texture, rich and indulgent, neither too sweet nor too bitter. The Petit Royal Cafe we visited was cozy and warm, a beautiful escape from the cold outdoors. On our last day I almost missed the departure train in order to grab one last hot chocolate to go.
Make a stop at the Läderach Chocolate shop. Whether you are shopping for gifts for family, or just taking a delicious memory home, I highly recommend bringing back this divine chocolate. There are many options for all tastes, including assortment boxes of chocolates filled with nuts, toffees, creams and caramel concoctions. There is an amazing box called Carrés Grand Cru, filled with delightful dark chocolate squares from around the globe, each slice a little bitter bite of the world, perfect for the purists. And my absolute favorite, Les Ganaches, where a creamy square of chocolate heaven is covered in cocoa powder.
If you take a day off from the slopes, or don’t join in on the winter sports but still love the outdoors, head up to the top of the Gornergrat, a rocky ridge of Peninne Alps overlooking the garner glacier. It is accessible by train, and boasts being the highest open air railway in Europe. From here there is a short hike up to the top where you can enjoy an uninterrupted view of the Matterhorn. It is a breathtaking landscape and well worth bundling up to see it. Afterwards head down to the Vis-à-Vis restaurant inside the Kulmhotel Gornergrat for one of the best Fondues in Switzerland. The exact recipe is a secret, made from local cheeses, and every bite is divine. You have the option of dipping bread, but I recommend adding the potatoes, they are wonderful covered in the cheesy goodness. Top it off with a glass of mulled wine and you are all set to enjoy a wonderful day in winter wonderland.
Now let’s talk about a few of the food highlights. As mentioned before, be sure to stop in Petit Royal cafe for divine hot chocolate. They also offer delicious soups and salads at lunch. It does get busy so you may consider booking ahead for mealtimes. Vis-à-Vis is still the best fondue i had on the trip, and offered an amazing view to go along with it.
A local casual dinner spot to try is Whymper-Stube restaurant. They offer the classic raclette and other local dishes. There are many other great casual spots to enjoy the local cuisine in the town, you will be spoilt for choice. I always ask for a local recommendation from the concierge, or even other restaurateurs who enjoy talking about their local favorites.
If you are here for a little more intense foodie fun and prefer a fine dining experience, After Seven is the premier two Michelin star stop of choice. They offer a cultivated tasting experience that is seasonal and expertly crafted by the master chef Ivo Adam. It boasts an open kitchen platform that is both warm and inviting, while delivering some of the world’s best cuisine. Beware the dehydrated towel, it’s not edible!
There are plenty of options for accommodations in Zermatt. If you are traveling in a group, a ski chalet rental could go a long way to saving you a bit on your trip, which is helpful because Switzerland can be expensive. There are also a lot of hotel options of varying degrees of price range. We opted for a hotel-chalet combo at the lovely Schlosshotel Zermatt. This offered us a full kitchen, so we didn’t have to eat all of our meals out of the chalet. The service was great, and we had access to a bar, ski locker room, massage therapist, and breakfast was included. There was also a beautiful fireplace inside our chalet where we could enjoy a glass of wine in the evenings. It is such a breathtaking place, and can be very romantic. (Especially if you leave the family and friends at home!)
To get to Zermatt you must connect by train. The Swiss train system is one of the best in the world, very efficient and timely. Access directly from the airports is available from both Geneva and Zurich. We stopped for a day in Zurich on our way and had a wonderful time. There is a train transfer from the regional train to the local Zermatt train, so if you bring your own ski equipment, rather than renting, be prepared to carry it from one to another.
Zermatt brings the imagination of winter wonderland to life in this beautiful winter town in the Alps. It has magical chocolate, foodie options for the connoisseur and laymen alike. It hosts some of the best skiing and snowboarding right on the Alps. Zermatt offers a chance to completely escape into a different world, breathe crisp fresh air, and enjoy the majesty of nature. If you would like to visit, I suggest planning for next year, as it gets very busy during the height of winter holidays and ski season. We booked our stay almost 6 months ahead and still had trouble finding availability. I really hope you consider a winter escape here, it is worth the travel, and offers a lifetime of memories and adventures.
Written by Jess Sandberg
@have_wine_will_travel
Info@have_wine_will_travel.com
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