By Carrie Brock
Burgundy, or Bourgogne as it’s known locally, has a dramatic history dating back millions of years. From its prehistoric topographical character to its more recent, religiously oppressive and melancholic past leading up to the French Revolution, Bourgogne has seen its share of difficulties during its growth to prominence.
As history and wine are indisputably fused together in this world, one must understand history before she can fully appreciate the value of the wine in her glass.
Thus begins our journey. A trip my comrades and I, as oenophiles, decided would satisfy our thirst for both wine and knowledge, and would subsequently become the experience of a lifetime.
About a year ago, having just completed my first WSET course (the Level 2 Award in Wines), a sort of pilgrimage was calling: a beautiful region in France which, in some ways seemed to be the most complicated, but in some, the most straightforward wine country on the planet.
During my wine studies at Laguna Culinary Arts in California, I had a moment that changed me. My instructor asked the class one night how much we knew about the terrain of Bourgogne. The other students and I all stared blankly at each other. She said, “Okay, put your pens down. This is not in the curriculum.”
So she started at the beginning: About 200-60 million years ago, much of France was a shallow, tropical ocean home to ancient species of prehistoric sea creatures. Stay with me here…
Over millions of years, as these animals died, water pressure forced their fossilization onto the ocean floor. Through the next several hundred thousand years, generations of species layered on top of each other, contributing to the unique clay-rich limestone soils which now form Bourgogne’s crucial slope locations.
As the tectonic plates shifted, and as the water receded, a dry landscape was created forming a mosaic of ‘terroir’ (a French term encompassing all aspects of the land and environment in which the grapes are grown), with differing soil types, aspects and elevations, all within a relatively small area.
Fast-forward to the Middle Ages and the Benedictine and Cistercian monks, the few literate souls in France at the time, who made wines for both the Church and the Dukes of Burgundy. They were the first winemakers to document their processes and practices – hence beginning the hundreds-years-long learning process, which, through compounding knowledge, has created what are today considered the finest wines on earth.
Now… let’s talk about the reason we’re here: the wine!
The vast majority of wines produced in Bourgogne are dry, and made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. They vary in quality depending on vineyard location, winemaking practices, and classification.
Bourgogne has a highly regulated classification and labelling system (known as Appellation d’Origine Controlee, or AOC), designed to help the consumer determine what’s in the bottle he or she is buying. These classifications range from basic level “regional” wines, up to single-vineyard, elegant and complex examples reaching upwards of $10,000 a bottle.
Here’s a very basic overview: If a red wine is labeled “Bourgogne Rouge” one can assume it’s made from Pinot Noir and from grapes grown throughout the region. These are the lowest level of classification and give wines with ripe, red fruit character which are meant to be drunk young. If a wine has the village name on the label, “Gevrey-Chambertin” for instance, it will have been subject to more tightly regulated grape growing and production practices, and the grapes must come from that specific village. These wines are of slightly higher quality than those from the basic regional level.
Next are the wines sourced from the most prestigious locations – “Premier Cru” and “Grand Cru:” terms earned by appellations which have consistently made top-quality wines.
“Premier Cru” wines will have the name of the village and, if sourced from a single vineyard, the name of the vineyard. Only small fraction of the best single-vineyard wines (just over 1% of total production) will earn the classification of “Grand Cru,” and only the vineyard name will appear on the label, “La Tache,” for example.
The best terroir, mostly that reserved for Grand Cru wines, will be mid-slope and provide access to shallow, well-drained, limestone-rich soils, producing concentrated fruit of a complexity able to withstand years of both oak and bottle aging.
Another interesting feature of Bourgogne is that the climate varies greatly from north to south. The cooler climate in the north, the region of Chablis for example, gives wines from the Chardonnay grape with crisp acidity and intense mineral character, whereas the wines from the Grand Cru Vineyard of Montrachet in the warmer south give beautifully layered, creamy and fruity wines from the same varietal.
So as you can see, Bourgogne has achieved, through centuries of trial and error, a perfect selection of very few grape varieties which thrive beautifully in a specific climate. Due to its subtle variances in terroir, history and antiquity can speak to us in countless different ways through the same grape… it all depends on location.
This brings me to my travel tips, should you decide to visit this gorgeous place. Hopefully, you’ll find my countless hours of research helpful, and you’ll embark on an experience you’ll never forget.
Where to Stay:
Le Central Boutique Hotel ***
I do a lot of research on hotels. And I mean a LOT. To the point at which I’m annoying hotel staff via email and asking for specific bed measurements and bedroom floor plans.
After toiling for many weeks, and going back and forth on hotels, vacation rentals, etc., I decided on the Le Central Boutique Hotel in the beautiful Medieval town of Beaune.
When they call this hotel “central,” they are not kidding. It is right in the middle of town, mere steps from the Hospices De Beaune. It is owned by an entrepreneur who, quite recently, purchased the hotel and completely renovated every room to the highest of standards of comfort. The rooms are large, clean, simple but modern, with air conditioning and beds that are larger and more comfortable in my experience than most other European options.
Our particular room was a “family” room, on the 3rd floor with lovely city rooftop views. Most importantly, it was very quiet.
My friends and I decided we’d like to room together, and this room was an excellent choice. For three women (with three sets of hair products and accessories), having an extra large bathroom (and a second smaller one as well!) was ideal for us. There was plenty of bedroom space for the three of us and all of our luggage.
The best part for me was the price. It was about half the cost of the local 5-star hotels in town. This saved us several hundred dollars per-person for this leg of the trip, which of course, importantly, we quickly spent on wine!
If you’d like to stay at the Le Central Boutique Hotel, you won’t be disappointed. Ask for the wonderful owner, Edgar, and mention my name at booking to receive a complimentary bottle of Cremant de Bourgogne (local sparkling wine) upon check in! Book here.
Other Options:
Abbaye de Maizieres ****
Gorgeous 4-Star boutique hotel in the middle of town among the perfectly cobbled streets, this hotel is a stunning example of 14th century French architecture. Called the Maizieres Abbey because it was occupied by the monks from the early 14th century and through the French Revolution, when all the aristocracy’s and church’s properties were confiscated.
The hotel is lovely and excellent for a romantic getaway, but ultimately the bathrooms in the larger suites would have been too small for our needs. It does have a beautiful cave restaurant in which we dined and received great food and wine with excellent service and a fantastic ambiance.
L’Hotel De Beaune *****
This 5-Star 14th Century renovated home is, again, very centrally located within the small town. It’s also one of the few hotels in Beaune with on-site parking and 24-hour front desk, concierge and room service. The 13 rooms are well-appointed in understated luxury, each offering it’s own individual charm.
An exciting amenity of the hotel is the famous Le Bistro de L’Hotel, considered one of the top restaurants in the world by Conde Nast Traveler. The tasting menu is award-winning, as is the wine list, which features wines from all of Bourgogne, the Cote du Rhone and even California.
Where to Eat:
Caves Madeleine:
The preferred local spot, this small restaurant in the town of Beaune offers a casual atmosphere with only 5 or so tables, so reservations are a necessity. Without them be prepared to wait in line. Despite its small size, the place is big on flavor with its farm-to-table tasting menu (which changes daily), and boasts one of the top wine lists in town. Highly recommended. Reservations a must. Read more about our experience here.
Le Relais de Saulx
Masterchef star Olivier Streiff brings a fresh take to French cuisine in a simple and small setting in the heart of Beaune. Service is exceptional and I highly recommend. Reservations a must; they are released 3 months in advance and are only available by phone.
Le Castrum Cafe
Also known as Restaurant Abbaye de Maizieres, as it’s in the hotel of the same name, this stunning dining room is all about atmosphere. Situated in the cellars beneath the 14th Century abbey, this restaurant offers food and wine as beautiful as its surroundings. Reservations recommended.
Le Jardin des Ramparts
Lovely garden setting in a Michelin-starred restaurant worth its positive reviews. The restaurant offers fantastic service, with tasting menu or a-la-carte options, and one must be prepared to spend 2+ hours. Reservations a must.
Olivier Leflaive le Restaurant
Beautiful restaurant in the town of Puligny-Montrachet offering classic dining infused with modern atmosphere, along with what could be considered the best white wines in the world. Excellent sommelier and the opportunity to meet Olivier Leflaive himself. Reservations a must.
What to Do:
Hospices De Beaune (Hotel Dieu)
One of France’s most historic and important sights, this fascinating structure in the heart of downtown Beaune was used as a hospital for the poor during the 15th century, and currently plays the central part in the annual wine auction for which the city is famous. An audio guide is available, and I recommend getting there early when they open at 9am to avoid the crowds.
Burgundy by Request
This was our private tour guide. Tracy, the owner, will bring you to the most historic and fascinating establishments in the Cote D’Or. Depending on which itinerary you prefer, you can stop for lunch at a Michelin-starred restaurant or eat outside in a beautiful vineyard. We visited the famous Grand Cru vineyard sites and wineries of Clos Vougeot, Marchand Tawse, Olivier Leflaive in Puligny-Montrachet and even stopped for a tasting with the negociant Pierre Mayeul. We rubbed shoulders with famous restauranteurs and winemakers, and through Tracy’s connections were able to purchase wine to have shipped home. It was an unforgettable experience. Must book in advance.
Musee du Vin de Bourgogne
This building is the former home to the aristocratic Dukes of Burgundy. The wine museum is small but comprehensive and will guide you through the history of winemaking in Bourgogne. Be sure to check out the centuries-old wine presses in the outside complex. Open to the public for a small fee.
Basilique Notre Dame de Beaune
The cathedral in central Beaune was built between the 13th and 15th centuries. It is absolutely stunning inside, and houses one of the largest collections of 15th century tapestries in France. Open to the public for a small donation.
Getting Here:
Daily trains are available from Lyon and Dijon, and even a high-speed option from Paris (although you must connect to the regional train in Dijon). Walking into town from the train station is easy. Must book 3 months in advance as these trains fill up quickly. For more information including timetables and booking, visit: www.tgv-lyria.com for high-speed train info, and www.sncf.com for regional train info.
Questions? Comments? Email me directly at travelerandoenophile@gmail.com
Special thanks to:
Le Central Boutique Hotel
Burgundy by Request
WSET Global
Neptune School of Wine